Our city ‘cheat sheets’ are versions of the notes I send to friends when they are going to a city I know and love. x laura aviva
Updated: Early 2019
DESIGN INSPIRATION
MAMBO The modern art museum.
The MUSEO BOTERO and GABRIEL GARCIA MARQUEZ CULTURAL CENTER both do justice in a big way to their namesakes, two of Colombia’s most beloved artists.
ESCUELA DE ARTES y OFICIOS SANTO DOMINGO Started by Beatrice Dávila de Santo Domingo and Poli Mallarino, this school for arts and crafts is a passion project with the goal of preserving Colombia’s artisanal heritage. There’s really impressive work in silver, leather, wood and textiles being done here, and you can make an appointment to tour the workshops.
DEIMOS ARTE For design and objects (from the same people who started La Escuela de Artes y Oficios Santo Domingo).
MUSEO DE ORO The gold museum.
HECHIZOO by JORGE LIZARAZO They have a workshop (which can sometimes be visited by appointment) in the south of the city. It’s a total wonderland. There’s a store in the center.
A DAY OF PERFECT EATING
BREAKFAST
MERCADO DE PALOQUEMAO Start with a stroll through the market: fruits, vegetables, meat, fish and everything in between. It’s endless. Take it all in, then grab a snack at one of the stands surrounding the market perimeter. Hunt down a fruteria (fruit stand) and hunker down with a big bowl of tropical fruits or a salpicón (a type of fruit salad/smoothie).
LUNCH
LA PUERTA FALSA Old school in La Candelaria. Tiny and super crowded in the ‘on’ hours, but there’s charm in the smoosh. Order ajiaco (the chicken soup particular to Bogotá) and the tamals. Or go earlier in the day and order a chocolate completo, a Bogotano snack of hot chocolate, a piece of cheese for dunking, and two types of bread.
EMPANADAS DE PIPIAN for my favorite-ever empanadas that hit the spot any time of day. And for tamales, too.
DINNER
If I had one night in Bogotá, I’d go to MESA FRANCA.
If I had two, I’d go the first to LEO CAVA y COCINA, and the second to Mesa Franca.
If I had two, I’d go the first to LEO CAVA y COCINA, and the second to Mesa Franca.
Both focus on local ingredients in very different ways.
Leo showcases culinary traditions from across Colombia and features little-known local ingredients. The tasting menu there takes you on a journey through the country. It’s heady and can be a tad stiff, but the bites all hit the mark.
Mesa Franca is just straight-up fun and delicious.
IN A CLASS WHOLLY OF ITS OWN
ANDRÉS CARNE DE RES A must, although somewhat hard to explain. Part restaurant, part amusement park. Located about an hour outside of Bogotá in Chia, it’s sprawling in every way, from layout to menu. A complete, raucous experience, and an institution. Yes, it’s touristy — but it’s also a spot for locals and everyone in between, too.
HOT TIPS
MONSERRATE I have a ritual where I like to start my trips to Bogotá by going up to the top of Monserrate. The mountain gives a little sense of place and perspective before diving into the insane traffic back down in the city. The view of the city skyline and valley down below is breathtaking.
You can hike up, take a cable car or take a funicular. The hike is MAJOR (it’s long, with a gazillion steps, and the high altitude makes it a killer). I like to cable car up, and then hike down (although even the down hike can be pretty intense).
ON SUNDAYS
CICLOVÍA BOGOTÁ, where many of the streets are closed off to cars. Rent a bike, walk or run to the USAQUEN FLEA MARKET.
SLEEP
CASA MEDINA FOUR SEASONS (in Zona G)
Situated in a historic colonial building, this hotel is ideally located.
Situated in a historic colonial building, this hotel is ideally located.
THE CLICK CLACK HOTEL (by Parque 93)
A newish boutique hotel, with a good amount of quirk.
A newish boutique hotel, with a good amount of quirk.
B.O.G.
(in Cundinamarca)
A somewhat more elegant, higher-end boutique hotel.
(in Cundinamarca)
A somewhat more elegant, higher-end boutique hotel.
MISC.
COFFEE
Until recently, all good coffee in Colombia was exported. That’s changing, with a whole new wave of young coffee makers. (The same applies to some extent with Colombian rum.) The best are:
AMOR PERFECTO (in Zona G)
They have a really lovely cafe (and you can also now buy it in Carulla, the chain of nice supermarkets all around the city).
They have a really lovely cafe (and you can also now buy it in Carulla, the chain of nice supermarkets all around the city).
AZAHAR (near Parque 93)
This is also a great spot for breakfasts of the egg-y variety.
This is also a great spot for breakfasts of the egg-y variety.
CAFE CULTUR (in Zona G)
Staged in a rehabbed shipping container.
Staged in a rehabbed shipping container.
CHOCOLATE
TERRASANA Small-batch artisanal chocolates. Beautifully packaged. They really nail dark chocolate — up to 100%.
EXPLORE
OUR COLOMBIAN COLLECTIONS
CRIN COLLECTION
flatweave rugs
CAÑA FLECHA COLLECTION
palm fiber poufs
WERREGUE LIGHTING COLLECTION
coming soon
