ANTIGUA TABERNA QUERIOLO Open since the 1800s, this is a traditional bodega. Go for a taste of old-school Lima, and settle in for an afternoon pisco sour and a snack next to the old men at the bar doing same.
STREET EATS I’m a huge sucker for street food, and Lima is remarkable in this realm. Anywhere with a line is probably worth a try, especially if a) you’re adventurous and b) they’re serving anticuchos.
Lima is a great city for a dinner splurge. Two standouts:
CENTRAL Definitely high concept, definitely special. The set menu includes a long succession of beautiful dishes, each inspired by Peru’s different altitudes. If you can’t get a reservation, try sitting at the bar. The atmosphere is not the same, and the bar menu is limited, but it’s an easier, more accessible way to get a taste of Virgilio Martínez’s food. (I’ve noticed that limeños have given Virgilio the nickname ‘El Gordo’, a playful reference to him being anything but that).
MAIDO This is the spot for simply stellar nikkei — a mix of Peruvian ingredients prepared with Japanese techniques.